Home AsiaTwo-week Kerala itinerary: Backwaters and beaches in India’s southern state

Two-week Kerala itinerary: Backwaters and beaches in India’s southern state

by Kat

If you’re dreaming of palm-lined backwaters, tea-covered hills, and laid back beach towns, Kerala should be high on your list. We recently returned from a two-week trip around India’s southernmost state and it ended up being one of our favourite trips.

We initially considered booking a tour, but decided to plan everything ourselves. Having travelled in northern India before, I had a feeling the south might be a bit calmer and easier to manage… and it definitely was! If you’re wondering whether you can do the same, or you’re looking for the perfect route, here’s our full Kerala itinerary for 2 weeks, including exactly what we did and what we’d recommend.

Can you travel Kerala independently?

The short answer? Yes!

While India can feel intimidating at first, Kerala is much more relaxed than the north of the country. Things move at a slower pace, and overall it feels less chaotic and more manageable.

Public transport isn’t always the most convenient (especially for this route), but private drivers and taxis are very affordable. We used them for most journeys and found them comfortable, safe, and well worth it, especially for longer distances.

Our 2 Week Kerala Trip Itinerary

Fort Kochi (3 days)

Fly into Kochi Airport

Fort Kochi is the perfect introduction to Kerala. It’s small, walkable, and a great place to ease yourself into India (especially if you’re arriving from a cold UK winter and need time to adjust to the heat).

We kept things intentionally slow here to recover from jet lag.

Things to do in Fort Kochi:

  • Visit the Dutch Palace
  • Explore Jew Town and the synagogue
  • Watch a traditional Kathakali performance

You could also do a food tour (we missed out due to LPG shortages at the time), or experience eating dinner on a Chinese fishing net – a really unique way to get up close to a centuries old tradition.

Next: Travel to Munnar by car

Munnar (2–3 days)

Munnar is Kerala’s tea country, which means rolling green hills, misty viewpoints, and endless plantations. If you’ve been to Sri Lanka, it feels very similar to Ella.

Most activities here are organised day trips. Some of the most popular include visiting a tea factory (Lockhart is a well-known option), jeep safaris and hiking tours.

We skipped the tea factory (having done one in Sri Lanka) and instead opted for :

  • A full-day jeep safari, ending at the Elephant Village, so called because wild elephants often visit to drink from the stream there.
  • A half-day trek through the tea hills around Munnar. Just to note If you decide to do this activity when the weather is getting quite hot, it was 4–5 hours of walking in direct sun with very little shade, and pretty exhausting.

Next: Travel to Thekkady by car

Thekkady & Periyar Tiger Reserve (2–3 days)

This was one of our favourite stops, and one that’s often skipped. Thekkady sits slightly off the typical Kochi–Munnar–Alleppey route, but if you have time, it’s absolutely worth adding for the wildlife and scenery.

Periyar Tiger Reserve offers a range of activities. We originally wanted to do the overnight trekking and camping experience, but it only runs on certain days and didn’t fit our schedule, so it’s worth checking in advance. Instead we opted for:

  • A guided nature walk
  • The classic afternoon boat safari
  • A half-day bamboo rafting experience

Each experience offers something different. If you want to read a full run down of the activities, what wildlife we saw and what I think was worth doing, check out my post: Best activities for wildlife spotting in Periyar Tiger Reserve.

Also, it’s worth saying despite the name of the national park the likelihood of seeing a tiger is very low. There are 35 in the park, but one of the guides told us he’d only seen a tiger seven times in 35 years of doing his job!

Next: Travel to Alleppey by car

Alleppey Backwaters (2 days)

You can’t visit Kerala without experiencing the famous Alleppey backwaters. It would be like going to Vietnam and not seeing Ha Long Bay!

There are different ways to explore, but we chose a private overnight houseboat. The experience runs from around 12pm to 9am the next morning, and included our own private boat, a crew and onboard chef and all meals.

It was incredibly relaxing, just sitting back, watching everyday life along the water, camera in hand.

One of the best parts was the early morning canoe ride through the narrower canals. It was quiet, peaceful, and felt much more intimate than the main waterways.

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A quick note on Alleppey town:
It’s not particularly exciting. We stayed an extra night after the houseboat, and honestly, it wasn’t necessary (aside from our lovely homestay). You don’t need extra time here. We thought we might explore the beach and when we got there discovered they have built not one but two flyovers right next to it!

Next: Travel to Varkala by train (we booked 2nd class which has AC)

Varkala (2 days)

After a busy first half of the trip, we were ready to slow down and Varkala was perfect for that. It has a completely different feel: beachy, relaxed, and a bit more international. Think yoga retreats, digital nomads, and lots of great cafes.

The main area runs along the North Cliff, lined with restaurants and shops, and there’s a really nice buzz in the evenings.

We stayed in a villa near the south beach and ended up having it entirely to ourselves, including what felt like a private pool, so we spent most of our time just unwinding.

Next: Travel to Kovalam by car

Kovalam (2 days)

Kovalam was our final stop and, if I’m honest, probably our least favourite.

We’d heard mixed reviews while travelling, and they were fairly accurate. It feels a bit like a more dated version of Varkala. Apparently, it used to be the main hotspot before Varkala became more popular.

That said, it still worked well for us.

We stayed in a beautiful five-star hotel (very affordable compared to Europe), so spent most of our time relaxing by the pool.

Why it’s still worth considering:

  • It’s only 20 minutes from Trivandrum and the airport
  • Makes for a very easy final stop before flying home

We also took a short trip into Trivandrum to see a few sights, including the Sree Padmanabhaswamy Temple (non-Hindus can’t enter) and a Ananthavilasam Palace.

Fly home from Trivandrum Airport

Final Thoughts

We absolutely loved our time in Kerala thanks to the huge variety of landscapes and experiences we were able to enjoy all within the same state. In just two weeks we were able to enjoy the stunning tea hills, wildlife spotting, cruising in the backwaters and trendy beach towns. No two places felt the same, which kept the whole trip exciting. If you’re looking for a destination that combines adventure, culture, and relaxation, Kerala is a fantastic choice.

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